Non irrigated vines planted "on the rocks" at Mas de Martin
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Dear wine lovers,
Within the "big sea" of Coteaux du Languedoc wines, some sub-division need to be done to consider all differences of the Mediterranean "terroir". All around Montepellier and especially on its North East side, there is one that I particularly enjoy : Grès de Montepellier*.
**Mostly planted on rocky limestone square white rocks at 200 meters elevation, vines struggle to look for water and food on these poor soils. During the summertime, days are very hot and nights cool, which allows a better acidity in the grapes and which is always appreciated in this south part of France**.
Syrah and Grenache behave perfectly in the environment and can be sometimes blended with Mourvèdre. Wines are concentrated but with smooth tannins and this permits to enjoy them young on red fruits hints like the current 2004 or 2003 vintages or aged with complex smoked flavors like the 1999. That's when I prefer them, especially with this wild boar chops recipe*** made by Vincent, chef and owner of the best Restaurant in Phoenix.
The wines I like from Grès de Montpellier are Chateau Puech Haut, Château des Aumières, Château Engarran but the very best of them is Mas de Martin, a piece of paradise lost in the "garrigue" where Christian makes a wondeful wine and where you can stay in the beautiful gites decorated by Anne-Marie.
Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse
Any comments, edits are very welcome at [email protected]
PODCASTS :
Listen to this whole edition in French (allow some delay depending on your speed internet connection)
Listen to this whole edition in English (allow some delay depending on your speed internet connection)
Learn more about Languedoc wines and especially what happened there with the famous
Mondavi case, thanks to this excellent DVD : 
See Grès de Montpellier on a French wine map
*Listen to Grès de Montpellier
**Principalement plantées sur des cailloux de calcaire blancs à 200 mètres d'altitude, les vignes souffrent pour trouver de l'eau et de la nouriture sur ces sols pauvres. Pendant l'été, les jours sont chaudes et les nuits sont fraîches; ce qui permet une meilleure acidité dans les raisins et ce qui toujours apprécié dans cette partie sud de la France**.
***Wild boar chops recipe
Ingredients :
4 wild boar chops
4 cups veal half-glaze
1/2 cup of cream
1 or 2 dried "habanero" peppers
1 tbsp. of butter
Salt and black pepper
Preparation :
Season and cook the chops at 200°C / 390°F for 30-45 mn.
In the meantime :
Bring the half-glaze to a boil with the cream and "habanero" peppers.
Reduce to half.
Fine in a blender, strain and add butter.
