Monsant Mountain which blocks the cool north wind
Dear wine lovers,
Located an hour south of Barcelona in the Taragona area, Priorat* is surely one of the most outstanding wine areas in Spain.
Just as for the best worldwide "terroirs", the explanation is given by Mother Nature who has put together the broad and highly elevated Monsant Mountain to shelter the area from the North wind. From there, a southern oriented landscape composed of the famous Licorella stones (schists) makes for a perfect draining soil. This fact not only allows the ground to prevent humidity (generating plant illnesses) but allows to store water underground enabling the vine to be self sufficient during the hot dry summer.
After this, you need to match the right grapes to the right area. "Garnatxa" (Grenache), fulfilled by Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are the ones. If I mention "Garnatxa", it is not only being exotic but also to point out that this grape variety is the local one that, year after year, has slowly muted to adapt to its very particular environment. Now, after the Monks** discovered this place to grow vines about 1,000 years ago, farmers meticulously monitor perfectly their subject, producing with a very low yield a great grape which naturally turns into a unique wine.
During my stay there last week, I visited only Mas Blanc owned by Bodegas Pinord, a family winery located in the Penedes area. Rosa and Juan who continue to modernize the family winemaking tradition have done a fantastic job there, creating the typical terraces that look like an amphitheater where the most beautiful "wine plays" take place. It should also be noted that the vineyard and the cellars are organic which shows the mentality, respect and care given to this very special area.
Otherwise, the other Priorat that I know are Clos Mogador whose owner, the French René Barbier, inititated the renewal of Priorat wines, Mas Martinet, Alvaro Palacios or Vall Llach with the famous Cims de Porrera, a wine made from more than 100 years old Grenache and Carignan.
Tasting Priorat is always a memorable occasion, in addition to being there. The first sensations are dominated by the powerfulness of the wine both in the nose and in the mouth. Then, some very delicate and complex flavors emerge such as vanilla, prune, pipe tabacco and leather which go on forever...
You can pair this wine with highly-spiced regional foods such as "jamon", wild spicy meat or cheeses. I really enjoyed the 2003 that really improves after couple of hours of oxidation. Of course, if you run into a 1999, don't hesitate to enjoy it. And even if it is not the cheapest wine (count on about 50 US$), I guarantee that you will never forget this experience.
Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse
Any comments, edits are very welcome at [email protected]
* Listen to "Priorat"
Spain has great food, besides wines. This book will tell you all you need to know :
** Monks = Moines
See Priorat area on a Spanish wine map (use enlarge icon to see it better)
To learn more about Priorat and Spanish wines in general, visit this website :
