An old Vendée Map
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Dear wine lovers,
Located South of Nantes and very close to the wild Atlantic Ocean is a small vineyard : Fiefs Vendéens*.
In fact, Fiefs Vendéens is not a controlled appellation but a "Vin de Qualité Supérieure" which is the very last step before getting the AOC recognition, which should arrive soon.
**In 1963, a few vine owners decided to re-create the tradition of making wine here and now they have to fight against Real Estate which speculates on land and which is unfortunately a better business than wine**.
Planted on very poor schist-gravel-sand soils, the vines benefit from a micro climate which mostly consists in a rain deficit compared to the rest of this humid region, especially in summer.
Besides the well known Chenin, Chardonnay or Sauvignon for the whites, you can find some Melon (the Muscadet grape) and "Grolleau" which is the original traditional grape here. The same thing is the the rosés and reds with Gamay, Pinot, Cabernets and "Négrette".
The wines from Fiefs Vendéens are specific and complex. While sampling a white wine yesterday at my friend Fabrice who runs Le Vin Sobre wine bar and wine retail, I told him that if it was poured in a black glass, you could think it is a red white from Beaujolais with both acidity and structure and that's the reason why I had it with this Provençal lamb recipe***. The roses are nice but, I think, lack fruit and the reds, always smooth, should be drunk a little chilled and can very different depending the grapes and terroirs they are made from.
Since this is a small and very touristic area with the famous and beautiful Sables d'Olonnes nearby, these wines are mainly distributed locally.
The ones I know are Coirier Père&Fils, Château de Rosnay but the very best here is Domaine Saint-Nicolas, a fervent biodynamie actor which produces unique wines.
Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse
Any comments, edits are very welcome at [email protected]
PODCASTS :
Listen to this whole edition in French (allow some delay depending on your speed internet connection)
Listen to this whole edition in English (allow some delay depending on your speed internet connection)
"Domaine Saint-Nicolas a fait des progrès spectaculaires au début du millénaire - Domaine Saint-Nicolas has done spectacular progresses in the begining of the millenium".
This sentence is extrated from the best french magazine for wines :
See Fiefs Vendéens on a French wine map
**En 1963, quelques propriétaires de vignes décidèrent de re-créer la tradition de faire du vin ici et maintenant ils doivent se battre contre l'immobilier qui spécule sur la terre and qui est malheuresement un meilleur business que le vin**.
***Provençal lamb recipe.
Ingredients :
3 lb. (8 ribs) rack of lamb
3 Tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, very finely chopped
1/2 -1/3 cup soft dry bread crumbs
1/4 teaspoon ground thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground rosemary
2 Tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 Tablespoons Dijon mustard
Salt & freshly ground pepper
Preparation :
Preheat oven to 525°F.
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet and add the shallots and garlic. Cook for 2 minutes, do not allow the vegetables to color.
2. Remove skillet from heat, add bread crumbs, thyme, rosemary, parsley, salt and pepper to taste.
3. Stir in egg then mustard. Stuffing should hold together in soft mounds.
4. Spread the remaining oil in a roasting pan, add the lamb and turn to coat on all sides.
5. Roast for 9 minutes, turning once so that the lamb browns on both sides. Remove from oven.
6. Spread the stuffing over the fat side of the meat. Return to oven and roast for 8 minutes for rare (internal temp: 130-135°). Cook an additional 5 minutes for well-done.
7. Remove from oven, turn broiler to med-high and broil for about 3 minutes or until crust turns golden brown.
8. Transfer to warm platter and let sit in 200° oven for 5 minutes before carving.
