french wine a day:

Dear wines lovers,

It is very classic to say, but I truly think that white burgundies are, in the big picture, the best white wines of France.

Within the myriad of Burgundy's appellations--like Corton-Charlemagne, Ladoix or Puligny-Montrachet--one in particular is deep in my heart just because it touched it many times: Meursault*. Located in the heart of these little appellations, it is for me a very good compromise between the powerfulness of a Montrachet and the fruitiness of a Pernand-Vergelesses.

Burgundy is the kingdom of Chardonnay (and Pinot for red wines) and with its famous Cotes de Beaune Mount, it expresses itself differently depending on the altitude, orientation and subsoil--not to mention vine growing, family wine making traditions and techniques.

Meursault can be drunk "on the fruit" but its evolution into nut** aromas is really worth the wait. Since it is often aged in barrels, it will also give vanilla a taste and will be a perfect match for almond trout with a light lemon sauce.

Vincent Girardin whose family winemaking is rooted since 11 generations, the old Chateau de Meursault that you can visit (or last least virtually at http://www.meursault.com/meursault/uk/index.htm), the famous and well-known Louis Jadot brand are 3 reliable references but best of all is without a doubt Leroy. If you find a 1989, you will experience now what is this nutty taste. Otherwise in the current available vintages, 2002 is the one of the last decade. So don't hesitate to get 3 bottles and age 2 of them.

Cheers,

Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at [email protected]

*Listen to "Meursault" : Download Meursault.wav

**nut = noisette

To see Meursault on a French wine map (NB: enlarge it when open): Download Meursault.jpg

Dear wine lovers,

Well, still not a Bordeaux wine after 10 editions of french wine a day? Not anymore...

Among the "satellites appellation" from Bordeaux which means not the very famous ones like Margaux or Pomerol but those actually around them, there is one that I particularly appreciate since it has a lot of assets of its big brothers from Saint Emilion and Pomerol without the outfit to wear: Cotes de Castillon* Download castillon_vines.jpg.

Overlooking Saint Emilion, Cotes de Castillion has less slopes** and a richer ground. Since the Merlot does not get a super concentration there, most of the vineyards don't age their wines in new oak barrels, which permits not only fairer pricing but also more respect as to the balance of fruit / tannin. Also, more and more winemakers blend it with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc which balances the lack of acidity of the Merlot.

The taste reveals a nice fruit, especially when the wine has not been aged in too much oak. In fact, it is not a wine that is really worth aging in a bottle since it will lose its fruit without bringing a lot of complexity in return. Drink it with duck cooked with red fruits and honey and you will appreciate a very nice Bordeaux style wine at a very fair price.

Vineyards like Chateau Roque le Mayne, Domaine de l'A or Chateau Bellevue are a good samples of what you could enjoy. If you go in the area, don't forget to stop at "l'envers du décor," a wine bar in Saint Emilion where they will offer you blind tastings, which is always a fun game.

Cheers,

Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at [email protected]

*Listen to "Cotes de Castillon": Download Castillon.wav
**slopes = pentes / coteaux

To see Cotes de Castillon on a French wine map (NB: enlarge it when open): Download Castillon.jpg