french wine a day

Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange

Vines in "Vin de Pays" planted on a gravely plain near Cairanne

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Dear wine lovers,

In France, wines are classified under three levels that are supposed to express their quality.
The lowest level which has very few administrative contraints is "Vin de Table", the highest with a lot (probably too much) to respect are "Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée" (AOC) and in the middle, you have "Vin de Pays".

"Vin de Pays" vines are planted on grounds that are supposed to be richer with less potential for raising quality grapes than AOC where lands are located on slopes and / or on rocky soils. Note also that any producer that own vines in an AOC area will be able to declassify his wines without any control into "Vin de Pays" if he considers that his wine does not reach the quality level he expects or if they voluntarily don't respect some rules, like for example, mentioning a single grape variety on the label.
Therefore, and even if the regulations of "Vin de Pays" are less strict and that most of the wines produced have minor quality, there are always exceptions that confirm the rule.
One of them is Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange*.

**Located not far away from their big brother of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, some vines still benefit of some flat lands covered, millions of years ago, by the Rhône River. Now, if  these areas have alluviums, they are also full of graves which enables a better draining  and all the assets that rocks can bring to vines**.

With the same base of the powerful Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault are bringing fruit and elegance. The wines are usually easy to drink and some "Vins Nouveaux" are also released at the same time as the ones from Beaujolais (third Thursday of November).
Because of their softness and fruity side, these wines can be married with light dishes such as this almond chicken recipe***.

Besides the light and easy wines that you can find at good prices as, for example, Cave de Cairanne or Domaine de Fontavin, there are also some that would beat most of Rhône AOC : Domaine Rabasse Charavin "Syrah" or Domaine de la Janasse which produce this beautiful Terre de Brussière.

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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If, like me, you enjoy touring the Rhône, here is a good book :

*Listen to Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange

See Vin de Pays de la Principauté d'Orange on a French wine map

**Localisé non loin de son grand frère de Châteauneuf-du-Pape, certaines vignes bénéficient encore de terrains plats couverts, il ya des millions d'années, par la rivière Rhône. Maintenant, si ces endroits ont toujours des alluvions, ils ont également plein de graves, ce qui permet un meilleur drainage et tous les atouts que les pierres peuvent amener aux vignes**.

***Almond chicken recipe

For 4 people
Ingredients :
2 pounds of chicken breasts
1/3 cup of fresh mushrooms
3 tablespoon of soy sauce
1/2 cup of bamboo shoots
3/4 teaspoon of salt
1/2 cup of celery
1/4 cup of onion
10 water of chestnuts
1 cup blanched almonds
1/3 cup of chicken stock
2 cup of peanut oil
Preparation :
Let macerate chicken breasts with a mixture of soy sauce and salt.
Fry almonds until golden in 1 1/2 cups hot oil. Pour off oil, drain almonds on a paper towel.
Reheat pan; add 3 tablespoons of oil.
Saute vegetables for 1 minute; drain off oil and set aside.
Heat 4 tablespoons oil, saute chicken for 1 minute.
Mix in vegetables and stock; simmer 1 minute. Add almonds.
Serve with rice.

 

Mercurey

"Soutirage" and "remontage" in Mercurey

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Dear wine lovers,

In the heart of Burgundy and inside the "Cote Chalonnaise" is the largest communal  controlled appellation of this famous Region : Mercurey*.

**As usual in this part of France, the vineyard is very "parcelised" in the spirit of distinguishing the best lots, which explains the 1er Cru notion that only the best parcels get**.

Mercurey mainly produces red wines from Pinot Noir and just 10% of whites from Chardonnay. Well structured, the red wines balance with both powerness and finesse. It can be drunk young (with a passage in carafe) and it will then express exploding black fruits or aged, with hints of kirsch evolving to hay and tobacco. That's when I prefer them and they will pair very well with this pigeon chestnut recipe***.

The wines that I like in this area are Domaine Michel Juillot, Robert Size and you might have more chances finding the great "Crus" from Faiveley or, more modestly, the ones from Antonin Rodet that offer a great price / quality ratio.

Visiting Mercurey wineries is easy because the area is very concentrated with lots of small family producers where you can even stay over in their B&B. Some will even take you down to their personal cellars for some unforgettable tasting experiences...

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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My preferred book on Burgundy wines :

See Mercurey on a French wine map

*Listen to Mercurey

**Comme d'habitude dans cette partie de la France, le vignoble est très parcellisé dans l'esprit de distinguer les meilleurs lots, ce qui explique la notion de 1er Cru que seulement les meilleures parcelles obtiennent**.

***Pigeon chestnut recipe

Ingredients :
Olive oil
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 red onion, finely chopped
8 pigeon breasts
Pinch of dried chilli flakes
½ tbsp of chopped rosemary
2 fat garlic cloves, crushed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
200 Ml of Mercurey
200g vacuum-packed whole chestnuts
2 sprigs rosemary, bruised

Preparation :
Heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the carrot and
onion until soft and slightly coloured. Leave to cool completely.
Put the pigeon into a bowl or plastic bag with the onion and carrot, the
chilli, rosemary, garlic, seasoning, 2 tbsp olive oil and the wine. Cover or
seal. Marinate for at least 6 hours or overnight.
When you are ready to cook the pigeon breasts, drain from the marinade. Pour
the marinade into a pan, bring to the boil, then simmer gently for 20
minutes or until reduced by half. A foam will develop initially but this
will disperse. Adjust the seasoning and set aside.
Meanwhile, put the chestnuts in a saucepan, cover with olive oil and add the
rosemary. Heat up very gently until the oil is warm but not hot. Remove from
the heat and leave to infuse for about 15 minutes. Drain with a slotted
spoon.
Heat a griddle pan over a medium heat until smoking. In batches, sear the
pigeon breasts for 3 minutes each side (they should still be pink). Serve
with the sauce and the chestnuts.

Vino Italiano

My collection of Italian wines.
Note that 1967 Gaja Barbaresco that I will surely open next year for my 40th birthday...

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Dear wine lovers,

Even if my knowledge in this country is very low and even if I still have not digested the world soccer final, I have to confess my sincere admiration for Italian wines.

Of course and surely because they are in the same wine category of my dear babies from Châteauneuf-du-Pape (small terroir, powerful, long history.. ), Barolo and Barbaresco located in Piemonte have been the first Italian wines to awake my senses. Then, I have expended my interest to Tuscany, especially after I had the chance to drink a Sassicaia.

More rencently, my friend Chris from Portland who distributes there fine Italian wines has opened my eyes to those beautiful wines coming from the North East and especially the white wines like those aromatic Traminers made in Trentino mountains located by the Austrian border.

*Of course, the list is much bigger but so far and besides some very nice wines coming from Sicilia and Liguria, that's about it for my knowledge*...

Last week-end, I had the chance to visit the Liguria area near the French border. Planted on these steep terraces linking the Mediterranean to the Alps, the Vermentino (also named Rolle in France) was harvested.

In the beautiful village of Ceriana, restaurant owners use to make their own wine with a small piece of land belonging inside the family circle. When we met Dario and its typical car,we helped him carry the grapes to his small cellar and were rewarded by this priceless home cooked mealoffered by Esmeralda**. During this "festino", Dario opened a fruity sparkling red from Barbera and Croatina grapes he made last year and a Chianti much less rustic than these Sangiovese wines I had before.

Another highlight of this trip was this outstanding Enoteca Consani wine bar in Ventimiglia where people from all ages and all origin get together to share a glass of wine. The wine list is impresive and they always come with those so delicious antipasti.

Besides its great wines, Italy definitely has this asset of welcoming people, even the ones they cruelly defeated a few weeks before at the world soccer cup...

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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Like me, learn more on Italian Wines with this beautiful book :

*Bien sur, la liste est plus grande et malgrès de jolis vins de Sicile et de Ligurie, c'est à peu près tout de ma connaissance**.

**Esmeralda's Pomodoro Basil Spaghetti recipe :
Ingredients for 6 people :
2 pounds of fresh ripe tomatoes
Italian olive oil
1 chopped onion
Garlic
Chopped fresh basil
Salt and pepper to taste
1 pounds of Spaghetti
Parmesan cheese
Basil leaves
Preparation :
Wash, peel and chop tomatoes, discarding seeds.
Heat oil in a moderately deep pan, add onion & garlic and saute until onion is limp.  Discard garlic and add tomatoes, chopped basil and salt & pepper.
Simmer for about 20 minutes over moderate heat. While sauce is simmering, bring a large pot of water to boil.
Add salt to taste and add spaghetti. Boil until spaghetti is "al dente," aprox 8 to 10 minutes.
Drain spaghetti, toss with the sauce and the grated Parmesan cheese.

Hermitage

The steep slopes of Hermitage in October

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Dear wine lovers,

Located near Tain l'Hermitage in the center of Rhône Valley and reminding me of the beautiful slopes I found north of Healdsburg are the vines of Hermitage*.

Once known as the preferred wines of Louis XIV, this "Cru" was also very much appreciated by the Russians Tsars.

**Planted on steep rocky slopes and mainly south oriented, the vines also benefit from the sun's reflection on the river, which gives even more maturity to the grapes**.

Syrah which can be blended with 15% of white grapes from Roussanne and Marsanne composes most of this old appellation created in 1937. The red wines are both fruity and quite tannic when they are young but do have a huge potential to age for great tasting emotions. White wines are both subtle and powerful and you might enjoy them with this almond trout recipe***. Also, note that this appellation produces a few, but excellent, bottles of Vin de Paille.

Visiting this beautiful area is like playing hide-and-seek with hills, vines, Rhône River and it is always a great pleasure. During your stay, you will surely run into vineyards and the ones I like the most are Domaine des Remizières and, of course, Jean-Louis Chave. Otherwise, there is no way that you will escape from Jaboulet, Chapoutier and the good coop of Tain l'Hermitage that has very fair prices.

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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Printed in French, Cuisine et Vins de France features every two months lots of recipes in along with articles on wine. Subscribe here

See Hermiatge on a French wine map

*Listen to Hermitage

**Plantées sur de pentus coteaux rocailleux et principalement orientées au sud, les vignes bénéficient également de la réflexion du soleil sur la rivière, ce qui donne encore plus de maturité aux raisins**.

***Almond trout recipe
Ingredients :
2 fresh trouts
Flour
4 tb butter (50g)
3 1/2 ounces almonds (100g)
Lemon juice
Vin Jaune (or Sherry if you can't find some)
Parsley
Preparation : 
Spread flour on a plate and coat each side of the trouts
Into a fry pan, brown trouts into melted butter for 4-5 minutes, turn and cook for another 2 minutes
Sprinkle with lemon juice blended with vin jaune and cook for 1 or 2 minutes
Into a clean fry pan, brown almonds, but do not add butter
Serve trouts really hot, sprinkled with browned almonds and parsley

Grès de Montpellier

Non irrigated vines planted "on the rocks" at Mas de Martin

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Dear wine lovers,

Within the "big sea" of Coteaux du Languedoc wines, some sub-division need to be done to consider all differences of the Mediterranean "terroir". All around Montepellier and especially on its North East side, there is one that I particularly enjoy : Grès de Montepellier*.

**Mostly planted on rocky limestone square white rocks at 200 meters elevation, vines struggle to look for water and food on these poor soils. During the summertime, days are very hot and nights cool, which allows a better acidity in the grapes and which is always appreciated in this south part of France**.

Syrah and Grenache behave perfectly in the environment and can be sometimes blended with Mourvèdre. Wines are concentrated but with smooth tannins and this permits to enjoy them young on red fruits hints like the current 2004 or 2003 vintages or aged with complex smoked flavors like the 1999. That's when I prefer them, especially with this wild boar chops recipe*** made by Vincent, chef and owner of the best Restaurant in Phoenix.

The wines I like from Grès de Montpellier are Chateau Puech Haut, Château des Aumières, Château Engarran but the very best of them is Mas de Martin, a piece of paradise lost in the "garrigue" where Christian makes a wondeful wine and where you can stay in the beautiful gites decorated by Anne-Marie.

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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Learn more about Languedoc wines and especially what happened there with the famous
Mondavi case, thanks to this excellent DVD :


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*Listen to Grès de Montpellier

**Principalement plantées sur des cailloux de calcaire blancs à 200 mètres d'altitude, les vignes souffrent pour trouver de l'eau et de la nouriture sur ces sols pauvres. Pendant l'été, les jours sont chaudes et les nuits sont fraîches; ce qui permet une meilleure acidité dans les raisins et ce qui toujours apprécié dans cette partie sud de la France**.

***Wild boar chops recipe
Ingredients :
4 wild boar chops
4 cups veal half-glaze
1/2 cup of cream
1 or 2 dried "habanero" peppers
1 tbsp. of butter
Salt and black pepper
Preparation :
Season and cook the chops at 200°C / 390°F for 30-45 mn.
In the meantime :
Bring the half-glaze to a boil with the cream and "habanero" peppers.
Reduce to half.
Fine in a blender, strain and add butter.

Fiefs Vendéens

An old Vendée Map

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Dear wine lovers,

Located South of Nantes and very close to the wild Atlantic Ocean is a small vineyard : Fiefs Vendéens*.

In fact, Fiefs Vendéens is not a controlled appellation but a "Vin de Qualité Supérieure" which is the very last step before getting the AOC recognition, which should arrive soon.

**In 1963, a few vine owners decided to re-create the tradition of making wine here and now they have to fight against Real Estate which speculates on land and which is unfortunately a better business than wine**.

Planted on very poor schist-gravel-sand soils, the vines benefit from a micro climate which mostly consists in a rain deficit compared to the rest of this humid region, especially in summer.

Besides the well known Chenin, Chardonnay or Sauvignon for the whites, you can find some Melon (the Muscadet grape) and "Grolleau" which is the original traditional grape here. The same thing is the the rosés and reds with Gamay, Pinot, Cabernets and "Négrette".

The wines from Fiefs Vendéens are specific and complex. While sampling a white wine yesterday at my friend Fabrice who runs Le Vin Sobre wine bar and wine retail, I told him that if it was poured in a black glass, you could think it is a red white from Beaujolais with both acidity and structure and that's the reason why I had it with this Provençal lamb recipe***. The roses are nice but, I think, lack fruit and the reds, always smooth, should be drunk a little chilled and can very different depending the grapes and terroirs they are made from.

Since this is a small and very touristic area with the famous and beautiful Sables d'Olonnes nearby, these wines are mainly distributed locally.
The ones I know are Coirier Père&Fils, Château de Rosnay but the very best here is Domaine Saint-Nicolas, a fervent biodynamie actor which produces unique wines.

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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"Domaine Saint-Nicolas a fait des progrès spectaculaires au début du millénaire - Domaine Saint-Nicolas has done spectacular progresses in the begining of the millenium".
This sentence is extrated from the best french magazine for wines :

See Fiefs Vendéens on a French wine map

*Listen to Fiefs Vendéens

**En 1963, quelques propriétaires de vignes décidèrent de re-créer la tradition de faire du vin ici et maintenant ils doivent se battre contre l'immobilier qui spécule sur la terre and qui est malheuresement un meilleur business que le vin**.

***Provençal lamb recipe.
Ingredients :
3 lb. (8 ribs) rack of lamb
3 Tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, very finely chopped
1/2 -1/3 cup soft dry bread crumbs
1/4 teaspoon ground thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground rosemary
2 Tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 Tablespoons Dijon mustard
Salt & freshly ground pepper
Preparation :
Preheat oven to 525°F.
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet and add the shallots and garlic. Cook for 2 minutes, do not allow the vegetables to color.
2. Remove skillet from heat, add bread crumbs, thyme, rosemary, parsley, salt and pepper to taste.
3. Stir in egg then mustard. Stuffing should hold together in soft mounds.
4. Spread the remaining oil in a roasting pan, add the lamb and turn to coat on all sides.
5. Roast for 9 minutes, turning once so that the lamb browns on both sides. Remove from oven.
6. Spread the stuffing over the fat side of the meat. Return to oven and roast for 8 minutes for rare (internal temp: 130-135°). Cook an additional 5 minutes for well-done.
7. Remove from oven, turn broiler to med-high and broil for about 3 minutes or until crust turns golden brown.
8. Transfer to warm platter and let sit in 200° oven for 5 minutes before carving.

Coteaux de Pierrevert

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Dear wine lover,

In Haute Provence where the Alps start to show up, around the Durance River and near the beautiful city of Manosque is the latest Provence controlled appellation : Coteaux de Pierrevert*.

Among the spendid lavender fields, vines are planted at 300-500 meters elevation on poor limestone soils. Because days are very hot and nights are cool in summer, this area has a real potential for permitting the vines to develop natural acidity. As a result, whites mainly made from Grenache Blanc and Clairette, rosés mainly made from Grenache and Syrah are the ones that have the best assets.

**Thanks to its nice acidity, rosé can cross the summer and is actually now showing its best potential. Mary it with one of these two seasonal recipes posted on my friend Leslie's blog**.

There are only 4 producers in Coteaux de Pierrevert so I thought I would list them all :
Cave des vignerons de Pierrevert, Domaine de Régusse, Château de Rousset and Domaine de la Blaque which has my preference.

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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Get to learn more about the "hidden side of Provence"  with this beautiful book :

See Coteaux de Pierrevert on a French wine map

*Listen to Coteaux de Pierrevert 

**Grâce à sa belle acidité, le rosé peuvent traverser l'été et montre en fait maintenant son meilleur potentiel. Mariez le avec une de ces deux recettes de saison postées sur le site de mon amie Leslie**.

Givry

The beautiful village of Givry and its vines

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Dear wine lovers,

In the South part of Burgungy, in front of Chalon-sur-Saone and on the other side of its River, there is a small village that produces very pleasant red and white wines : Givry*

**Planted on small slopes that once used to be inside the Saone River, soils are very permeable and not too rich. Givry also has 1er Crus where the "terroir" offers more rocks which enables the grapes to mature in better sanitary conditions.**

Givry white wines which make up for 20% of the appellation are mainly made from Chardonnay. They should be drunk young with River fish or with local cheeses like Brie-de-Meaux or Reblochon. Reds, made from Pinot Noir are fruity, round are can age longer. Try a 2002 with Charolais meat (or any beef like filet mignon) accompanied by this green peppercorns sauce*** and you will understand why some people say that Givry reds can be sometimes compared with their famous neighbors of Mercurey.

Givry is a beautiful village with awesome old architectural monuments churches and Châteaux, so it is worth a visit. Since the landscape is not to steep, it is fun to tour all around the small villages by bike. On the way, you will surely find some vineyards to visit. The ones that I like are Domaine La Sauleraie, Domaine Michel Sarrazin and Domaine Ragot with its charming B&B where you could stay in case you have sampled too much wine...

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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**Plantés sur les petits coteaux qui autrefois étaient à l'intérieur de la Rivière Saone, les sols sont très perméables et pas très riches. Givry a également des premiers Crus où le terroir offre plus de cailloux, ce qui permet aux raisins de gagner en maturité dans de meilleures conditions sanitaires.**

Prepare your future visit to Burgundy ("Côte d'Or") with this outstanding book :

*** Green peppercorns sauce :
Ingredients :
8 ounces package low-fat cream cheese
4 tablespoons freshly ground green peppercorns
Salt to taste
Juice of 1 lemon
Preparation :
Blend cream cheese and green pepper together, add the lemon juice and blend rapidly.

Jurançon

Jurançon vines above Pyrénées Montains

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Dear wine lovers,

On the hillsides of Pyrénées Mountains and all around the mystic town of Lourdes, you might find hidden parcels of vines that produce Jurançon*.

**Since the landscapes are very steep there, it is usual to see the vines planted on terraces, forming majestic amphitheaters. The soil is mostly composed of pebbles carried down by the Pyrénées glaciers streams**.

Mostly made from Gros and Petit Manseng grapes, this white wine can be either dry or sweet when harvested late. Young and dry, it offers hints of exotic fruits like pineapples evolving to white flowers and honey. But it is the sweet Jurançon that will even more enchant your palates with jam fruits, vanilla, nuts and even white truffles flavors with very old vintages. With such a nectar, here is a scallop recipe***.

The vineyards that I like are Domaine Bordenave, Domaine de Bellegarde, Domaine du Cinquau and this beautiful Clos Lapeyre. So next time you find a Jurançon in your preferred wine store, don't hesitate to grab a bottle to experience this unique wine and, while enjoying it, make a wish. As you might know, miracles happen around Lourdes !

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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**Dans la mesure où les paysages sont très pentus ici, il est usuel de voir des vignes plantées en terrasses, formant de majestueux amphithéâtres. Le sol est principalement composé de galets apportés par les ruisseaux des glaciers des Pyrénées.**.

If you like or plan to visit Languedoc and Southwest, here is a nice book :

*** Sweet Jurançon scallops :
Ingredients for 6 People :
600 g of scallops
4 teaspoons of fish stock
3 carrots
1 small celeriac
3 zucchinis
50 cl of fresh cream
20 cl of sweet Jurançon
20 g of butter
125 g of split almonds
Preparation :
Peel and dice vegetables.
Boil them and remove while still firm.
In a frying-pan, brown the cooked vegetable and scallops in butter.
Add the Jurançon and let the mixture reduce by half before adding fish stock.
Add the cream and bring to boil.
Grill the almonds.
Serve the scallops hot, garnished with the almonds.

Entre-deux-Mers

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Dear wine lovers,

Located south of Bordeaux between Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, there is a large area where are planted the vines of Entre-deux-Mers* controlled appellation.

**In the XI century and within those two "Seas" ("Mers"), the Benedictin Monks, who always chose great vine potential places to settle down, built the Sauve Majeure Abbey, a stop-over on the Saint Jacques-de-Compostelle road that belongs to the world heritage of humanity**.

Vineyards are situated on various table lands cut by many small rivers created by hillsides. With all sorts of favourable exposures, the soil, mainly composed of gravels, is ideal for growing white grapes. Cradled by the gentle oceanic climate, vines have found here a perfect environment.

Entre-deux-Mers area only produces a dry and fruity white wine made from Sauvignon, Semillion and Muscadelle. Sauvignon variety gives fresh aromas like grapefruit. Semillon offers soft hints of spring flowers, like pears or peaches. Muscadelle, floral and fruity, contributes to the aromatic complexity of these wines which should be drunk young at the aperitif, with seafood or with light dishes like this fish soup recipe***.

Because of its size, there are lots of wines from this area. As a result, prices are affordable. Try to avoid negociants and coops here and focus on small owned family Estates such as Château de Crain or Château Bonnet, Château Guibon, Château Grossombre who belong to André Lurton. And my favorite is Chateau de Fontenille located by the majestic Sauve Majeure Abbey, another reason to visit this beautiful area.

Cheers,
Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

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See Entre-deux-Mers on a French wine map

*Listen to Entre-deux-Mers

**Au XI ième sciècle et au sein de ces deux "Mers", les Moines Bénédictins, qui choisissaient toujours des lieux à fort potentiel vigne pour s'installer, ont construit l'Abbaye Sauve Majeure, une halte sur la route de Saint Jacques-de-Compostelle qui appartient à l'héritage mondial de l'humanité.**.

Talking about Bordeaux, here is a fabulous book :

***Fish soup recipe:
Ingredients for 4 people :
8 small sea rock (fresh water) fish
1 can of concentrated tomatoes.
Pinch of saffran, salt and pepper.
Olive oil.
Preparation :
1. Clean and gut fish, leaving heads and tails intact.
2. Put them in a pan and cover them with water, concentrated tomatoes and spices.
3. Boil them at low flame for 1 hour.
4. Pass everything through "moulinette" (or food processor).
5. Add olive oil.
5. Serve warm or cold.