french wine a day: Beaujolais Nouveau

Dear wine lovers,

Before re-running last year's Beaujolais Nouveau edition with some updates regarding the taste of 2006 vintage, here's the latest about our vineyard project :

Well, guess what I learned yesterday from the French administration ? You can't get a construction permit to build a cellar in an agricultural zone if you are not already considered as a farmer.... Great way to encourage projects from "city people" like me who want to become farmer ! Well, I will find a way to get this status changed soon but this anecdote shows you that France still has to re-consider a lot a things to encourage qualitative wine projects, which are actually the only ones that can resist globalization.

In the meantime, I am now shopping for tanks, tractors... and all vine - cellar materials. I will have lots of funny stories for you next week.

For now,here is the edition...

As you might already have heard about, "Le Beaujolais nouveau* est arrivé".

For those of you who would like to understand better why this event is now famous all over the world, here is my contribution :

Beaujolais wine is made out of Gamay which produces a light fruity red wine, not tannic since its maceration is short and its alcohol level is low so that it is ready to be drunk young. This fact has always pleased the vineyards and negociants because they do not have to carry a lot of stock. For a long time, the launch of new wines was restricted in France and Beaujolais wines were shipped thought the Saône River bringing them to the town of Lyon. That's actually why Beaujolais is jokingly referred to as the third River crossing this town, after Saône and Rhône.

Eventually, under the pressure of their promotion entity, these wines were allowed to be put on the market by November 15th and this was always the case until 1985 (besides 1977 where it was postponed to the 25th because of a late maturity). In 1985, this date was then turned into a bigger event and, for logistic purposes, it was agreed that it would be the third Thursday of November.

Beaujolais nouveau is now a big negociant business. I guess you all know the "star" brand (initials GD) about which I won't talk further since it does need publicity and because I don't appreciate its trust trade methods. Because of all this negociant's predominance, the quality and image have been damaged but in response to this, you can now find some small producers that elaborate a traditional Beaujolais nouveau without adding yeast or too much sugar**. Look for "unfiltered" or "propriétaire - récoltant" (owner - grower) on the labels and avoid "mis en bouteilles par" which means that it is not an Estate wine.

I personally like the wines from Domaine du Tracot where Jean-Paul Dubost perpetuates the quality family traditions, Château de Pizay, Domaine des Terres Dorées with the enigmatic Jean-Paul Brun, Domaines Piron or Château des Jacques, an Estate wine that belongs to the famous Louis Jadot brand.

As a wine "professional", I had the chance to already taste the Beaujolais Nouveau 2006 and my feeling is that it is OK... Fruity, of course, but lacks density compared to the very weel matured 2005 . Some will tell you that it has some hints of blackcurrant and blackberry but this is just pure marketing. So enjoy it today but be reasonable if you have to drive because the police might also tell you that it has a prune*** taste !

Happy Thanksgiving,

Cheers,

Jean-Marc Espinasse

Any comments, edits are very welcome at contact@french-wine-a-day.com

*Listen to "Beaujolais nouveau"

This "Cafe Beaujolais" book from the Chef of this famous restaurant has nothing to do with Beaujolais but has great cooking recipes :